| SEM 7 | Garment Creation Technology 2 |

Ting Shi Yann_0348682

Bachelor of Fashion Design Technology (Honours) 

Before the semester began, I went to Guangzhou to source various types of fabric for my collection. On the first day of class, I consulted with Mr. Brian to review my fabric choices and discuss my ideas for texture manipulation.

For my texture manipulation, I plan to layer the lace together.

In the previous semester, I completed three toiles for my collection. This semester, I have one final toile and four actual garments left to finish. Since I already designed three female looks, I decided to create a male look for my final piece to add variety and balance to the collection.

Before beginning Look 4, I revisited my blazer from the previous semester. During that time, the lecturers pointed out that it needed some alterations. At the start of this semester, I consulted with Mr. Brian during Week 1 to identify which parts of the blazer needed refinement.

With his guidance, we adjusted several areas:

• The armhole length was refined.

• The upper and under collars were revised—the under collar needs to be cut on the bias and in two pieces.

• The shoulder line also needed reshaping, especially extending down to the bust line.

After finalizing the adjustments, I redrafted the pattern, cut the new panels, and transferred them onto calico fabric for testing. I then began assembling the pieces.

One of the trickiest parts was sewing the lapel. Mr. Brian demonstrated the proper technique. It’s important to mark the crossing point of the seam allowance, and once sewing reaches that point, the fabric must be trimmed and turned. The fabric needs to be pushed behind and up to the top—without stitching through to the other side.

Next, I prepared to insert the shoulder pad. Beforehand, I had to get both the cigarette roll and the male shoulder pad ready. The cigarette roll goes on the sleeve side, while the shoulder pad is placed on the shoulder. To differentiate the front and back of the shoulder pad, I folded it in half—the larger half indicates the back.

To position it correctly, I aligned the center of the shoulder pad with the shoulder seam. The pad must be aligned with the seam allowance. Using hand-sewing techniques, I started stitching from the center outward, securing one side first before moving to the other. It's important not to bend the pad during sewing—instead, gently pull the fabric to meet the shape of the pad.

This step was challenging but rewarding. I'm excited to see how this male look will turn out and how it will complete my collection.

This is the outcome for the blazer that I have refined.

After finalizing the updated blazer toile, I began working on Look 4, which is a male outfit. I designed an oversized shirt with an extended body length and elongated sleeves to enhance the relaxed, casual silhouette. I transferred the pattern onto calico, then cut and sewed the pieces together to form the toile.

For the shirt, the body was designed with an oversized fit, while the sleeves featured a gathered detail. To achieve this, I drew a guideline on the front sleeve and manually created the gathering effect during sewing.

As for the pants, I wanted to experiment with a more structured and defined dart, so I used a “knife dart” technique. Instead of the usual slanted shape, I sewed the darts in a straight line to create a sharper, more tailored detail.

After completing the toile, I reviewed the fit and realised several issues:

• The overall garment was too tight.

• The length was shorter than intended.

• The collar was too small, making it difficult to put on.

• The sleeves after gathering it lacked volume, which limited movement.

To correct these problems, I made several adjustments. I enlarged the sleeve to allow for more ease, but this also caused the armhole to become too wide, so I had to refine the armhole shape and adjust the sleeve length for better proportion.

The outcome of the look 4 toiles

Assignment 1 submission

After completing my look with four toiles, I began sewing the actual garment. 

Look 1 

Process of making Look 1 actual.

Look 1 outcome

Look 2 

Proccess of making look 2

The most challenging part of sewing Look 2 was attaching the waistband. I used velvet fabric, which is stretchy, along with an elastic waistband. When pulling to sew, both the fabric and the elastic kept stretching, making it difficult to control and maintain an even stitch.

Look 2 outcome

Look 3

Proccess of making look 3

Look 3 outcome

Look 4

While the calico fabric was easy to control during the toile-making process, the final garment fabric posed a new challenge. I used a knitted fabric, which is elastic. I needed to use an overlock to connect the panels together and could not topstitch, which made it difficult to form the same gathered effect on the sleeves. To achieve this, I added a 1 cm elastic band to the seam allowance in the sleeve area to create the intended volume and maintain the gathered look.

After I've done my toiles, I straight do my look 4

Look 4 outcome

After styling my collection, this is the outcome of the overall vibe.

Presentation Day